Projects made with a 3D FDM Printer.

These our projects that were made with our Tevo Michelangelo 3d Printer.

These prints were crafted using a Tevo Michelangelo 3D printer, a compact and user-friendly machine that employs Cura slicing software for precise model processing. Instead of the traditional method of transferring gcode files to an SD card, OctoPi—integrated with OctoPrint software—allows for the model code to be wirelessly transmitted to the printer. This seamless connection enhances convenience and efficiency.

Moreover, OctoPi provides robust monitoring capabilities. With an attached camera, you can remotely observe the printing progress in real-time. The open-source software is accessed through a webpage, offering extensive functionality not only to monitor the printing process but also to control various printer functions. A notable feature is the time-lapse option, which creates engaging videos showcasing the model’s transformation from start to finish.

For those on the go, print progress can also be monitored on Android devices using apps like OctoRemote or Printoid, available on the Google Play Store. These apps bring the power of remote monitoring and control to your fingertips, making 3D printing more accessible and interactive than ever before.

We have a Logitech C270 HD cam connected to the Raspberry Pi's OctoPi. I'm using Blender to design any projects that I can't find online. Been using 3D Solutech 1.75mm filament, either in white or black. Also using a GeckoTek EZ-Stik Cold Professional 3D Printer Build Surface instead of using painters tape on the bed, and really am happy with it.

9/1/2018

Raspberry Pi case for OctoPrint.

9/1/2018

2.5 inch to 3.5 HDD SDD Adapter.

9/6/2018

Raspberry Pi Zero W Case.

9/8/2018

Astron Power Supply Covers.

9/16/2018

Coffee Measuring Spoon.

10/10/2018

Rose

10/20/2018

Baby Groot.

10.27.2018

Logitech C270 Webcam Stand.

11.4.2018

Cell Phone Stands.

11.18.2018

Desk Signs.

Our 3D Printer setup, with webcam for montioring and timelapse videos. Tevo Michelangelo Fully Assembled 3D Printer. Print size 150mm x 150mm x 150mm. Print speed of 60 mm/s. Full aluminum frame. All self contained. Logitech C270 webcam.

DIY Foot Pedal

I have a real nice Behringer V-Ampire LX210 amplifier, a modeling amp. The GNX4 is capable of recording and looping. The only thing is, you have to hit two footswitches together to bring up the recording/looping feature, then hit two foot switches again to return to the effects settings. There is a external foot switch you can get, but they are hard to find, so I just happened to come across the schematics for the foot switch, which is basically three switches, and two diodes. Also, the Behringer Amp has the ability to use a external foot switch to switch the different presets up and down. I had the case for one of those old Sling TV desktop boxes (not to be confused with the streaming app) so I thought why not build my own foot switch for both. Amazon has the switches for pedal boxes so I bought 5 of those, and the diodes.

First step, I installed the switches, three across for the GNX, then on the side two switches vertical. The three GNX switches a re Stop, Record and Play. The two Amp switches are Step Up and Step Down

Next is to wire it all up. This is the diagrams for how to wire the GNX switches. The labels are wrong, the Loop Up is Stop the LoopDn is Record and Record is actually Play, or at least that what it turned out to be.

The next step, I wired a disc capacitor across each switch to stop switch bounce. Then I wired all the grounds together, keeping the GNX and the amp switches separate so there's no common ground between them.

Then I wired the switches. I didn't have any 3-conductor cable laying around, so instead I took a couple of computer power cables and chopped the ends off. It's 3-conductor cable and color coded so that should work, right? The white is the tip, wired to the first switch (looking at the back). Black is the ring and wired to the second switch. I then wired a diode to the same connector as the cable with insulation, then combined them together with a wire going to the third switch. Green is soldered to the ground bar.

Then on the amp switch side, the white is the tip, which is to step down, and black is ring and that goes to the second switch for step up.

This is it all wired. Before I closed it up I stripped a bit more of the outside cover to give a bit of movement inside, then I put a plastic washer and a zip tie so it won't pull out of the box.

And here's the finished product next to the GNX. It works great, now I have a looper pedal, all I need to do is hit the second Record switch to start the recording, and for looping I then hit the third Play switch to start the loop. The first switch will stop. If you hold down the Stop switch for about 3 seconds this allows you to delete the tracks you have recorded. On the amp switches, if you hold the Down switch for about 3 seconds, it puts the amp into the interna Chromatic Tuner mode. Hit it again to take you out of Tune mode. Pretty slick.

ElectroVoice PL76 Conversion

Many many years ago I had purchased a ElectroVoice PL76 Cardioid condenser microphone. Since it was a condenser microphone it needed power. Power was supplied by a 4.5 volt mercury battery. Mercury batteries have been discontinued and replacements are hard to find. There are some alkaline battery replacements, but they really don't last too long. I held on to the microphone though. Then I came across a circuit which converts the microphone to use 48 phantom power instead http://www.uneeda-audio.com/phantom/pl-76mod.htm. All that is needed is two 680K ohm resistors, one 5.1v zener diode (1N5235B), and a 10uf/15v electrolytic capacitor. I didn't use the perf board like the website, I just soldered it all together then applied heat shrink tubing and tape. It all fitted right inside the battery compartment. I found out the on/off switch didn't switch the positive lead but for some strange reason it switched the negative lead. It works great!